Roundtrip 16 days Java by train

Jakarta

Jakarta, The Big Durian, you either love it or you walk away from it. It is the hometown of my mother, then called Batavia. In 1993 I was still in her birth house, a privilege that few Indos can still experience, as Jakarta has grown into a metropolis with about 17 million inhabitants. A lot of low-rise buildings have had to make way for skyscrapers that define the skyline of Jakarta.

Only the old city, Kota Lama, still shows many traces from the Dutch period. Be sure to visit Fatahillah Square with the National Museum and drink a cup of coffee in the nostalgic Café Batavia. Glodok, Jakarta's China town is within walking distance of Kota Lama. The old VOC warehouses and the fish market Pasar Ikan are also worth a visit.

I find it difficult to name a favorite restaurant. What I write today will be obsolete tomorrow. I would say check the internet and selamat makan, enjoy your meal!

Bandung

Bandung was often called "Paris of Java". It was not until 2020 that I found out where that name came from: the many fashion shops, Mediterranean restaurants and other luxury boutiques gave Bandung a Parisian look at the beginning of the 20th century. Bandung no longer has that look, except perhaps in the famous Bragaweg, one of the best-preserved shopping streets in the world in Art Deco style.
It is a busy and modern student city, where many old buildings and houses from the colonial period have been preserved. There are architectural highlights such as the Gedung Sate, Villa Isola, the old Concordia, but also the hotels Savoy Homann and Grand Hotel Preanger take you back to the times when the planters came to enjoy their Sunday drink.

North of Bandung are the volcano Tangkuban Perahu, the mountain village of Lembang and the Dago Tea House are worth seeing. In the south you will find the Malabar tea plantation. Kawah Putih, the white crater, is also located in the south and together with Malabar is good for a full day trip. The golden crater Papandayan is more to the east and is special because of the many geysers and the golden rim at the top. The Papandayan is again good to combine in a day trip with the hot springs of Garut.
If you are on time, make sure to visit Saung Angklung Udjo in the afternoon: a dazzling performance of angklung music with dance and wayang golek performance by children from the neighborhood, accompanied and accompanied by descendants of the late Pak Udjo. He once founded a music school for the street children here, which has now grown into a beautiful stage for the children in the neighborhood. At some point you play along, despite your musical illiteracy.

Favourite restaurant

Just like in other big cities, good food is not hard to find. My favorite is Dapoer Pandan Wangi. Order the fried perch Gurame Goreng, not available in the Netherlands, with Terong Raos as a vegetable: aubergines baked in dough. You will never regret it!

Cimahi

South of Bandung is the town of Cimahi. During the Japanese occupation, the current barracks served as Jappenkamp, where my grandfather and father had been interned for several years. In Cimahi is also the honorary cemetery Leuwigajah.

Borobudur

The Borobudur is a famous temple complex built in the 9th century. It’s situated on a small hill near Yogyakarta and surrounded by other temples and volcanoes. The complex is 47 meters high and consists of nine stacked platforms. The platforms represent the Buddhist cosmos. On the top floors there are 72 small stupas, which are built around one large central stupa, which symbolizes Nirvana.

The Borobudur is best visited during sunrise. The Sarasvati Borobudur hotel is a 1.1 kilometer walk. There are several hotels and resorts within 10 minutes, of which both small scale Rumah Dharma I and II are our favorites. For the traveler with a well-filled wallet, the Plataran Borobudur resort & spa is the ultimate choice (not to be confused with the big brother Plataran Heritage hotel, which is mainly geared towards wealthy local tourists).

Yogyakarta

Yogyakarta is the cultural center of Java, the soul of the island. It is also one of the nicest and most interesting cities in Indonesia. Partly because of the walled royal palace, Kraton, which is already a town in itself. You will find countless historical works of art and paintings. The gamelan is rehearsed daily in the morning hours, some days with dance and / or singing. The current sultan still lives on the palace complex.
The Water Palace, which can only be visited in the morning, is within walking distance.

For shopping you can visit the Marlioboro street with numerous stalls during the day and tasty food stalls in the evenings. Also visit the bird market Pasar Burung, one of the many batik galleries or go to the silver town of Kota Gede. In the evening you can attend a performance of the Ramayana ballet in the center.

Yogya surroundings

An hour from Yogyakarta is Borobudur, the world-famous Buddhist temple from the 8th and 9th centuries.
Closer is the Hindu temple Prambanan, where the Ramayana ballet is regularly performed.

Towards the coast is the town of Imogiri. Here is the final resting place of the rulers of Mataram, the Susuhunans of Surakarta, the sultans of Yogyakarta and other high Javanese nobles. The name comes from Sanskrit and means "Snow Mountain". You can decide to visit the sultans graves on the spot.

Especially on Sunday go to the beach of Parangtritis. You will be amazed how the locals enjoy the beach and get through the day taking selfies (preferably with you)!